Wrapped 90s girl Peppermint Jumpsuit
Summer had me wanting a wrap jumpsuit, and I know there is the Zadie, but the shape of Jasika’s striped hacked Peppermint jumpsuit really spoke to me, and I didn't want sleeves anyway, and it's free so I could print it off big with a minimum of guilt!
I'm going to run through what I did, because it pulls info from Jasika’s posts, the Threadsnips post, and Katie’s post. Of course, I mostly forgot to take pictures as I went, thougbleeh, so it won’t be as helpful as possible!. To make the hack, I printed off the A0 file and cut out my size. Guesstimating at the waist point, I extended the neckline down and angled the bottom up above the crotch curve to create a triangle, referring to the threadsnips pattern comparison.
For the back pattern piece, it was just a question of eliminating the centre back seam, since there would be no zip anyhow, to cut on the fold.
I then muslined the pattern in a lightweight thrift store sheet, sans facings. The sheet was cute enough that I thought it might work for a wearable muslin, but was too sheer for sure. I decided I wanted to move up the wrap triangle point and tie hole about an inch, and took out a wedge at centre back to prevent some gaping there. I also knew I wanted to tie the romper up off centre, so I adjusted the lengths of the ties so they would fall at close to the same point. I like the easy breezy wide fit of the jumpsuit for a romper, so the only other thing to do was figure out a length for the shorts. (That said, I should really have paid a bit more attention to some bodice fit issues - namely the armhole gap you can see and the forward-shifting of the shoulder seam, tho that was less obvious in muslin.)
Once this was done I transferred edits to the pattern paper (mostly via orange marker lines and folding b/c I might want to make the legit jumpsuit sometime) and drafted the facing. To create the facing I traced the outer edge of the jumpsuit and added about four inches with a soft curve. I wasn't quite sure where to end the facing, but went down an inch into the crotch curve to be safe.
I interfaced the facings with a lightweight fusible pellon, and to give it a clean looking finish, I first stitched these to the facing along the bottom, then gently pressed open, and finally fused it on. I really wish I'd done the pieces individually, but I stitched a few pieces together first, which meant that there are some areas where the facing interfacing doesn’t match up well at all. You can't see it anywhere since it’s just the facing, and I mostly plan to handwash, but I hope it doesn't lead to peeling or just weake
Come to think of it, I could have stitched the interfacing down where it landed for insurance. Man, I'll do that next time.
I understitched around the neckline/wrap edge, but neglected to do so around the armholes.
I did staystitch most everything before I started sewing but I think even the handling of moving the big pieces around caused some fun stretchy shifting. No big big deal, but the front wrap does gap more than I expected it to. Gotta add a snap!
In Jasika’s posts, she mentioned stopping when sewing on the ties so the point would be a point in the end. I couldn't for the life of me picture how it would not be a point if just attached in one go, nor how you would achieve a point otherwise. So I went ahead and sewed it in one go and now I can totally see what she meant and probably how to address it! On the other hand, it's totally mitigated by the plan to tie the romper to that side.
The in sidewalk are basically all zig zagged - I thought about clean finishing or French seaming, but clean finishing just didn't appeal and the seam allowances vary (according to industrial standards), so I felt French seams might just lock me in to too many moving pieces at once. And thank goodness, because I forgot to leave a gap in the side seam for the tire to go through, and seam picking a French seam to make one would suuuucked.
The last touch was to hem and to handstitch down the facings along seam lines, and at the bottom where the facings meet the crotch and just flap around otherwise. I had intended to finish these with a lil permanent cuff, but was eager to get it on my bod for a weekend away and a birthday treat, and now I've worn them twice with a simple hem and I'm happy with the look, so I think the cuff’s been nixed.
I didn’t add pockets to this because I figured lightweight rayon, bunching, etc, and I think that was the right call. I like the excuse to wear my lil tiny purse as a pocket, at least.
I'm really feeling this summery getup. It's lightweight, airy, and falls nice and far from the body. It's not PRACTICAL in a bright white + small children way (I got strawberry stains on my back the first time I wore it and the baby pooped literally all over my crotch the second time I wore it… But it all came out thanks to mediate action, cold water, Dawn, and sun bleaching!!). It IS practical for breastfeeding tho. It doesn't play the best with my bras due to some arm gape, tho that can be mitigated by wearing swim tops, and I think I might need to move the shoulder point back, because it keeps falling forward on me, making the front gaping worse. I don't think I need more than one romper, really, but I really like this little outfit, so I would make it again should the occasion arise.
Measurements: High bust 90 cm, full bust 96 cm, waist 83 cm
Size made: E
Pattern: Peppermint Jumpsuit, made into romper wrap
Fabric: paintsplashy dead stock rayon challis from matchpoint fabric (2.5 yards purchased, lots of bias tape made with leftovers)
Next time: attach interfacing to pieces before piecing, and stitch it down around the edges if it’s off kilter and won’t all get caught by the stitching (if it’s on the facing). Staystitch EARLY with long bias cuts of rayon!