Willi Wear pattern - McCall's 8531

For awhile, I’ve not been adding much to my vintage pattern collection because it is sufficiently large and I do kind of want to keep it to the bookshelf its on. And I do sort of want to make a good number of them (though I recognize that that is largely a dream). But! Willi Wear by Willi Smith patterns are a bit of an exception for me. (There are no hard and fast rules; but shop often, buy rarely, when the value is good and the pattern is right) This is only my second Willi Wear pattern and I’d still like to re-make the first.

Anyway, Fabcycle had a drop of old patterns in January and McCall’s 8531 was in there and I bought it, along with a very bright blue/turquoise lightweight wool. When I went to actually make it, I had sort of forgotten that I’d bought the wool with this project in mind and re-chose it for the same.

I find the design details a little hard to see on the package but the description gave a bit of insight “Tapered pants in two lengths (no waistband) have front zipper, pockets in side front seams and buckled back belts. All garments have top-stitching.” I would also say that the side seams are slightly forward (tho that could be a happy accident of my grading), the center back waist has a nice split shape, the pockets are stayed to the center front, and that while tapered, the fit is pleasantly relaxed (i don’t think that’s a happy accident of my grading, as the 4” grade i did may even be on the small side vis-a-vis my measurements, let’s get to that).

The pattern came in a size 12, measurements 67cm (26 in) waist and 92 cm (36 in) hips. I graded up 4”, and I did do a very rough top down center out one-leg fit check but made no adjustments based on it. I just wanted to know if my belly would be comfy at the size, and it is!

The pattern more or less went off cleanly, no major disasters, except that the pants have been a magnet for weird stains in their brief lives. Before I even finished them, there was a waxy spot right by the front crotch - white and discoloured. My only guess is tailor’s crayon, though I’ve never seen a build up like that. I had to get them dry-cleaned before I could even wear them because all my home efforts failed. And then I got some other gooey sticky substance (jam from a seven year old being silly with sandwhiches perhaps??) on the fronts during the wear pictured - luckily, this came off with cold water and dabbing, but I didn’t notice how wrinkled it made the crotch. So just know the wrinkling is not actually the pants looking horrible.

OH! But the pattern also is pretty light on interfacing. I really should have interfaced the center fronts but it wasn’t called for and I just didn’t think of it until I was already into zipper application. So there is some bubbling that is probably due to not having interfaced.

Pattern: McCall 8531 Pants (Long Length)
Size made: 12 (67cm waist) graded up 4” in one pass
My measurements: W 31 in, H 39 in
Next time: Interface!! And maybe make the facings in a different fabric